Ask any British foodie what they consider the cornerstones of our domestic food culture to be, and you can quite comfortably bet that they'll suggest a countryside pub serving hand-on-heart excellent food as one of the most important. In any given season, a great inn is something for us Brits to appreciate and be proud of, and Freemasons at Wiswell is undoubtedly one of the finest our fair isle has to offer.
The interiors are comfortable yet elevated, the perfect blend of cosy history and modern luxuryWe visited Wiswell on a grey, slightly drizzly weekend and were immediately enveloped in its warm and unique blend of local history – the interiors of the pub itself feel both elegant and rustic, the kind of style that makes you feel that the comfortable furnishings have hosted great days and nights for many generations past – and elegant, precise culinary masterpieces.
Upon arrival, the great Andrew, manager – beloved by all, including our toddler companion – showed us to our plush bedroom and we immediately sank onto the giant bed for a comfortable pause before the feast. We may have had an incredible meal just moments away, but that didn't stop us from tucking into the complementary (and oh-so-buttery) homemade shortbread alongside a cup of tea from the room's coffee machine.
The room was so relaxing that we would have been happy to while away hours there, but the promise of excellent food beckoned us – Freemason's accommodation is located immediately next door to the restaurant – to our waiting table. Just as we like it, the table was weathered wood (the kind you just know has fed many, many hungry appetites) topped with generous white napkins and soon by snacks so moreish we would have asked for more if we didn't have so much more to come…
The restaurant is charming and elegantly decorated, the perfect scene to indulge in great foodMike, the masterful chef, worked wonders with these bitesize indulgences. Crisp as you like pastries and crackers filled and topped with smoked duck and rhubarb, cheese and quince, smoked eel and beetroot were at once rich and perfectly balanced. Savoury intensity partnered with sweet, earthy and fruity relief, and the most perfect meeting of creamy and crisp.
Next came the bread... but this was far from your standard fare. Focaccia enriched with gently sweet lamb fat infused with garlic and rosemary was the kind of foodie discovery that makes you vow to attempt to recreate it at home, and the next course was the perfect foil: Wye Valley asparagus – that famed taste of the season, gentle and fresh, with a punch of flavour courtesy of zingy lime calamansi and rich miso. The asparagus itself was perfectly cooked with a toothsome crunch, and flowers added a prettiness which lifted the dish to attractive new heights.
King Edward potatoes are one of British food's most loved ingredients, but Freemasons served it with a modern take on cheese and onion; Doddington, grelot onions and chive oil made it a crispy, unctuous and deeply savoury indulgence.
Next came gently sweet crab served with crunchy green apple, delicately pickled kohlrabi and enlivened with zingy preserved lemon, with a luxe spoonful of oscietra caviar atop, then a satisfying detour into seasonal richness thanks to caramelised morels – dark and glistening with an intensely umami scallop mousse. These were served with artichoke cream and wine sauce, plus walnut oil, for a dish that was packed to the rafters with flavour and undoubtedly special occasion-worthy.
Despite its supreme flavour, hogget is still wildly underappreciated – but not here, where loin of Herdwick hogget was presented in a pillow-soft sweetbread ballotine and melt-in-the-mouth braised belly and tongue, alongside intensely savoury aubergine enriched with miso.
There was no chance we were leaving without sampling the comforting and elegant dessert: white chocolate with almond crumble, served with a delicate-as-a-butterfly's-wing soya milk crisp and an almond sorbet that was a delight for all the senses.
Tucked away on a quiet lane, Freemasons at Wiswell offers surpreme comfort alongside superb foodWe returned to our room calm and comfortably satisfied before sinking into the generous bath before bed, and awoke for a walk around the village - the natural spring is a delight – before settling down to the best breakfast we'd had out in a very long time: pastries, toast and a superb, perfectly-sized portion of sausage, bacon and eggs.
The rest of the day brought more foodie discoveries; Clitheroe is just down the road and worth a wander, and if you're up for a bit of a drive Outpost Bakery in Eccleston is deserving of a visit (don't leave before trying their iconic lamingtons, and be sure to grab a loaf to relish when you get home). The Courtyard Dairy is a must-try wherever you are in Lancashire, and be sure to treat yourself to a pizza at Rind - from the team at The Cheese Bar - once you've whetted your appetite with some cheese samples and picked up everything you need for a lush cheeseboard with all the trimmings.
Lancashire is not to be underestimated as a foodie hotspot; with incredible operations like Freemasons at Wiswell leading the charge, it is more than worth a trip... And no doubt you'll be back soon.
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