It’s impossible not to smile when walking through London’s Covent Garden – even if you find yourself shoulder-to-shoulder, bunched up in a crowd.
The shops, the eateries, the markets – the thrill of street theatre. It’s no surprise this part of the city throngs with visitors year-round.
Food-wise, you’re spoilt for choice. Whether you’ve got a hankering for a sweet bake with coffee, pizza, burgers, Asian or fine dining, there’s somewhere to pull up a pew.
If affordable bistro food, made in the spirit of comfort, is your jam, check out Pivot at 3 Henrietta Street. Located on the first floor of an historic townhouse, the all-day menu is curated by award-winning chef, Mark Greenaway. And it offers enviable (probably some of the best) views directly out across Covent Garden’s main piazza – perch by the window and you’ve got the best seats in the house for spying street theatre and people-watching.
Inside, the set-up is simple. A cheery orange paint job and furniture that makes you feel like you’re in someone’s front room for lunch/dinner. Nice and relaxing with no airs and graces.
The menu reaches into that classic British handbook (think salads, soups and grills) with a smattering of pasta dishes and pizza from sister business Doughnation,
It was naughty (but nice) to pick at a generous serving of spiced honey and mustard chipolatas after a morning dashing all over the city on business. Dense, meaty, high-quality bangers thickly coated in a sweet-spiced glaze.
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The herby chicken terrine, too, was a masterclass in such things, being super moist and tender, well-seasoned, and run through with enough greenery to make a point, without overpowering the chicken. The accompanying piccalilli and pickled veg were punchy and a pleasing addition.
Onto the mains, and the stone bass fillet could not have been cooked more masterfully. Crispy skin, flaking flesh, and a silky butter sauce hinting at citrus, with pops of salty caper. Buttery truffle mash (ordered as a side) was the last word in indulgence.
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Anywhere that’s brave enough to put chicken and chips on the menu in a part of the city constantly vying for foodie attention with the ‘next big thing’ is doing something right in my eyes. It’s a brasserie no-brainer. The herby half chicken here was cooked perfectly, arriving with lashings of savoury gravy, plenty of seasoned chips and a butterhead lettuce salad - the only downfall of the meal, being slightly too bitter.
An extra side here, of broccoli, was swoon-worthy. We don’t know what they did to that veg but it was luscious.
There was, naturally, room for a spot of pud. Having recently eaten a grainy, split chocolate mousse elsewhere, it was refreshing to see Pivot get this iconic French dessert right. It had a glorious sheen, creamy, frothy mouthfeel, and a decadent level of chocolate. I also appreciated the finishing touch of a little Amarena cherry on top.
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The berry pavlova on the other side of the table was behemoth in size and, again, well made, boasting crunchy-chewy meringue, sweet fruit and rich cream. It did need more cream to cut through the sweetness and tart berries though.
If you need somewhere to chill for a while out of the hustle-bustle of one of the busiest parts of London; somewhere without eye-watering prices, promising homely cooking that will soothe your nerves and please your taste buds, Pivot is well worth a try.
Find out more and book here.
