Leaning against the wooden railings of Harwich’s 170-year-old Ha’penny Pier, looking out through an inky, early evening sky towards Shotley, and the moving silhouettes of the Port of Felixstowe, we felt a real sense of peace ahead of dining at The Pier hotel.
Nudged right against the estuary of the Stour and Orwell Rivers the property (dating back to 1860) cuts an elegant figure, having been restored many years ago by the Milsom family.
There’s real grandeur about the building, and its sister property across the road (boasting additional accommodation). Both add to the charm of historic old Harwich – where a strong sense of maritime heritage weaves through the fabric of the place; in its streets, museums and one of the oldest surviving cinemas in the country.
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Arriving early ahead of dinner, we settled ourselves into the hotel’s Mayflower Suite where Geraldine Milsom (who designs all the hotel group’s interiors) has worked her magic, managing to make the space feel all-at-once homely, cosy and quirky. Beyond creature comforts (the squidgiest bed adorned with one of her favourite floofy Helen Moore throws, waffle robes, Jo Loves toiletries, an excellent hospitality tray, and loads of lounging space), there are plenty of signature Geraldine touches – a trio of vibrant figureheads, a telescope for boat-spotting, a leather trimmed vintage-style vanity unit, oversized mirrors.
These are rooms that don't feel clinical or paint by numbers, inviting you to release a sigh, slink into the provided slippers, and watch the world drift by outside on the water.
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Downstairs, a private lounge for guests offers refreshments and chonky Chesterfields to sprawl yourself over ahead of or after dining.
But we were keen to get to our table! It’s worth noting, if you’re a gin fan, The Pier’s ground floor Navyard bar is just fabulous. With both inside and outside seating, it boasts a long list of cocktails, mixers and many many many gins – from the everyday to the extraordinary. The list is also available upstairs in the brasserie.
The split dining room (again, making the most of those spectacular watery views), offers all-day dining. What I love about Milsoms properties (besides the decor) is the fact people still dress up for dinner when they visit their restaurants (here, Le Talbooth and Milsoms in Dedham, and Kesgrave Hall near Ipswich). That’s not to say you can’t show up in jeans and a T-shirt (you can) but there’s something a bit special about these places that makes customers want to dress to the nines, and I dig that.
Armed with a Tides Fortune Elderpear G&T – the gin made just a few miles away at East Coast Distillery, and very nice it is too – we were indecisive as ever perusing the menu, which leans heavily into seafood, while catering for carnivores and veggies.
Choices begin with the likes of steamed mussels or roasted Jerusalem artichoke velouté with hazelnuts and smoked cheese and truffle toastie, before launching into the restaurant’s famous fish and chips, 28-day aged sirloin steak, Suffolk Wagyu burger, classic fish pie, and venison haunch with boulangère potatoes, celeriac puree, vanilla poached blackberries and blackberry gel.
We kicked off with a warm, crisp sharing sourdough cob, which landed with softened (hooray – no one likes solid cold butter) salted butter, really good high density sticky balsamic vinegar and smoked olive oil, which I thought was a nice touch.
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Then, my smoked cod croquettes, tucking pockets of gently smoked fish into soft mash, bound in the crunchiest crumb, arrived, ticking all the right boxes. Especially noteworthy was the chunky romesco sauce, bringing a whack of almost barbecued pepper flavour. And I liked the pop of freshness from a citrussy garlic aioli and sweet pickled fennel.
Also snaffled down heartily were free-range Colchester Pyefleet oysters – considered some of the purest and finest in the world. We went for them tempura style; the sweet brackish flavour of the shellfish not scuppered at all by a thin skein of almost curry-flavoured batter, nor by the gochujang mayo. Loved the darling vintage-esque plate they were served on too. We rarely (read never) eat oysters at home, but I’ve been scouring Ebay for an oyster plate since!
My pan roasted sea bass was another triumph of seafood cookery from the kitchen. Crisp skin, a golden-edged nicely seasoned flesh, all tender within, and moreish garnishes. A soft cube of potato here, briny nugget of brown shrimp there. Pearls of salty caper. Seductive, silky cauliflower puree tasting all caramelised and buttery. The saucing was also seriously on point – a faultless citrus butter sauce with a lick of wine running through it. Delish.
We also loved the catch of the day – John Dory. Again, cooked expertly, it was paired with a spicy, boldly flavoured, layered bouillabaisse-infused sauce, meaty little shelled mussels, samphire and new potatoes.
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And the praise continues into dessert. We were told by our (very informative and friendly) waitress, that the pastry chef has been nurtured through the Milsoms group. And she is cooking up a treat in my opinion, so credit where credit’s due. My turret of chocolate and caramel delice, bathed in a glossy mirror glaze, was so sophisticated, refined and restrained, demonstrating real understanding of pastry technique. I enjoyed every morsel – the smear of toasted Italian meringue, candied macadamia nuts, rum and raisin ice cream so boozy it made me want to burst into a chorus of ‘what shall we do with the drunken sailor’, and that gloss-coated mousse on its sponge base with a core of caramel. My only note is I’d like a smack more sea salt in the caramel to make it really sing out.
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If Bakewell tart is your jam, order the amaretto cheesecake – a plate of creamy joy that eats just like it. So yummy.
Seafood lovers. Lovers of historic places. Lovers of waterside walks. All should put The Pier at Harwich firmly on their radar.
There’s so much to do nearby too – with cinema nights in conjunction with the town cinema, and a ferry across the road, taking you to Shotley where you can walk the peninsula and wind up at the vineyards for a tour and tasting.
You’re also close to Constable Country where, coincidentally, you can also dine at a couple of Milsoms’ other properties, and even book into their spa.
Find out more here, and follow The Pier at Harwich on Instagram here.
