Review: Starling, Esher

Charlotte Smith-Jarvis heads to Surrey to check out Nick Beardshaw’s debut neighbourhood restaurant 

It’s impossible to miss chef Nick Beardshaw’s debut solo restaurant, Starling. It appeared, an actual ‘bolt from the blue’, this autumn, striking a pose in central Esher with a jewel-like cobolt frontage that turns heads, even in this well-at-heel part of Surrey. 

This is Nick’s (who you’ll recognise from the Beeb’s Great British Menu seasons 16 and 18) grand depart away from the empire of mentor Tom Kerridge, having spent a decade as the celeb chef’s wingman. Nick launched The Coach in Marlow for Kerridge, gaining a Michelin Star in 2017, moving a year later to Kerridge’s Bar and Grill in London. 

And now, it’s finally the chef’s turn to prise his light from under the bushel, and take flight on his own terms, in his own domain – surely spurred on by a flurry of interest from GBM’s huge (and emphatic) fan base. 

Within, Starling gives a nod to the chic neighbourhood brasseries of Southern France. Hints of blue against terracotta walls. Idiosyncratic artwork. Vintagesque uplighters. There’s fun too...look up at the cutesy metalwork along a beam of lighting at the entrance – a nod to the restaurant’s avian name. 

Seating is arranged as a game of two halves. Smaller tables smack-bang next to the (remarkably serene) open kitchen, and a separate, kind of sexy, dining area, bisected by a long banquette. There’s also the option to sit at the bar while you wait – a nice bit of pre-dinner foodie voyeurism. 

The finish is of exceptional high quality, without being over-the-top. And that commitment to quality is demonstrated subtly. In the tactile embossed menus, for example. Or detailing around the bar. 

A chilly autumnal visit was instantly cheered by a glass of virgin Bellini (to evoke a bit of sunshine), alongside a bit of pure nostalgia in the form of rectangles of pillowy house crumpet, loaded with truffle cream and liberal shavings of 36-month aged Parmesan (regarded by most cheesemongers as the height of cheese nirvana). 

While there are flourishes of theatre throughout Beardshaw’s menu, he doesn’t shy away from simple platings...letting the ingredients do the talking. 

Take our beetroot starter, for example. A melting, moreish cheese sable pastry tart case anointed with marinated heritage beets, goats’ curd and chicory. Sweet, earthy and clean-tasting. 

Or pork loin, served unashamedly blush pink, with a herbal emulsion, pops of puffed skin, a tease of melting belly, citrussy fondant potato, and a devilled sauce with proper ‘oomph’. 

Then there’s a dessert of Xoco chocolate ice cream which shows complete restraint in composition and presentation, embellishing a whirl of not-too-sweet, cacao-rich whippy ice cream with drops of fruity olive oil, and freckles of Maldon salt crystals, served up with a warm, honey glazed madeleine Proust would certainly approve of. 

Pivoting the dial in the other direction there is, of course, one of the dishes Nick’s become renowned for since his Great British Menu stint – the winning, rather more ostentatious, A Moon Shaped Pool. 

If capturing food on camera is your ‘thing’ be ready as the waiting staff approach, clutching a shimmering, resin-topped box, because the magic happens in an instant – glossy green curry sauce poured over to ‘melt’ the top, gathering in the ‘rock pool’ below. Theatrics aside, this is, on the face of it, a dainty, delicate-looking dish. Pop a mouthful of gently charred hand-dived scallop in your mouth, however, and the truth is revealed. Layer upon layer of complexity, the green curry laced with tongue-tingling Szechuan heat, umami depth, and a whack of citrus courtesy of pops of finger lime. 

Inventiveness is also on display in the mushroom risotto. Not your standard risotto by any means, it reminded us of a dish eaten at fellow GBM alumni Richard Bainbridge's Norwich restaurant, Benedicts – a celeriac ‘risotto’ made not with rice, but by skilfully dicing root veg into rice-sized grains. 

Beardshaw uses mushrooms in the same way here, which is rather clever. Being cut to such miniscule proportions allows the fungi to deliver more bang for their buck. More beefy, bosky, close-your-eyes-and-you're-in-the-woods-ness. 

Texture comes via a runny-centred, ‘crispy’ egg, whose richness is countered by petals of sweet onion. 

Sticking with the inventive theme, first-time guests at Starling absolutely must order Chef’s homage to Banksy's Girl with Balloon...a playful, smile inducing pud that nods to the worlds of art, fantasy and fairground. Presented in a frame, complete with a ‘frill’ of edible shredded paper, the dessert is far from all fur coat and no knickers. The ‘girl’ is a soft, thin chocolate and raspberry torte. A candy apple-shaded mirror glaze clings to the rose and raspberry cheesecake ‘balloon’. The ‘rope’ is tart pate de fruit. And there’s popping candy, you know, just for kicks! 

Starling has all the ingredients to soar. Great location, effortless good looks, a menu veering between classic comfort and surprise and delight, and unobtrusive, intuitive, knowledgeable and friendly staff who work with finesse. 

It’s certainly worth stretching your wings for a visit. Find out more here. 

Pictures: Christian Barnett