Writer, TV host and seafood fanatic Chanté Joseph share’s her thoughts on the best places in London to enjoy Caribbean-inspired fish and seafood, from high-end restaurants to pop-up stalls
Seafood in Britain has evolved through immigration, the emergence of new communities and global trends. In my British-Caribbean family, seafood was a huge part of our diet, whether it was escovitch fish, stew fish, ackee and saltfish or saltfish fritters. It is now exciting to see so many Black-owned restaurants popping up with new and exciting takes on popular seafood dishes. The list below has great spots all over London that dare to create new rules around seafood cuisine. From high-end central London restaurants to pop-up stalls in East London, here are a few of my personal favourites to try.
The Fishbowl Brixton - Brixton
This Nigerian-British family-run business has become one of the main reasons I trek from North to South London. The Fishbowl brings Louisiana to Brixton with its expansive range of seafood boil bags. If you and your date don’t mind getting a bit down and dirty while earning your meal, then you will love this place. They source local seafood and seasonings to create a meal inspired by the deep south in South London. Their vibrant cocktail menu compliments the bright aesthetic and bustling sea-inspired decor. The staff are welcoming, and the location is perfect. When I visited I had their SeaMix boil bag which includes lobster tail, shelled prawns, potatoes and corn on the cob. There is nothing better than being in the heart of Brixton and all of the cultural richness it has to offer.
Ikoyi - St James
Named after Nigeria’s most affluent areas, this is a unique and creative dining experience. Ikoyi prides itself on building its spice-based cuisine led by British micro-seasonality. Every element of their menu is procured and served at its optimal state. Ikoyi’s kitchen misses no detail, and you can taste that in every dish. With a menu based on the flavours of West Africa, Ikoyi changed the way I thought about African and Caribbean food. The presentation and cooking style of classic dishes made me feel adventurous about my cooking behaviours. I was lucky enough to catch the lunch tasting menu which included Ikejime trout and finger lime as well as caramelised plantain and smoked Jollof.
The Wet Fish Cafe - West Hampstead
Growing up in North West London, I spent loads of time in West Hampstead, but it wasn’t until a Google deep-dive last year looking for seafood restaurants near me did I stumble across this heavenly place. A converted fishmonger from the 1930s, The Wet Fish Cafe is a romantic, chic and ambient restaurant that serves fresh seafood and great live music. The cosy neighbourhood brasserie focuses on local, wild-caught fish that come straight off Cornish dayboats and arrive to customers within 48 hours. When I visited, I had scallops with celeriac purée, pancetta and a hazelnut and passion fruit sauce. For my main, the catch of the day was pollock, so I enjoyed this meaty fish with dill-lemon mash, kale and beetroot.
Big Town Restaurants - Elephant and Castle
Big Town Restaurants is a fusion of traditional Nigerian dishes and seafood classics. Their grilled based dishes and West African marinades take regular seafood to an entirely new level. If you’re in the mood to have a fun night out, they often convert their restaurant into a venue for events, and the Big Town neon lights and screens across the wall give a 24-hour party atmosphere. If you’re tempted by this offering then make sure you call beforehand, to ensure they have what you want in stock. When I went I had the flavourful Jumbo shrimp and the traditional stewed fish with plantain and jollof. All meals are prepared with rich West African spices, fresh local produce and - in their words - a generous helping of love.
About Chanté Joseph
Chanté is a writer, digital content producer and host of Channel 4’s ‘How Not To Be Racist’ & ‘House of Horoscopes’. She is seafood obsessed and passionate about the way African and Caribbean chefs are fusing traditional British seafood with flavours of their home countries.
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