The Best Cask Ale in the UK

Cask ale is worthy of revere, says resident beer sommelier Sophie Atherton

It’s rare for a month to pass without some media coverage or debate on what it means to be British. Countless things can combine to represent any national identity, but in the drinks world there is one tradition at which few other nations excel: cask conditioned beer, aka ‘real ale’. In fact, hardly any other nations even do cask ale which is perhaps one of the reasons it feels like an integral part of ‘Britishness’.

We have a long and cherished tradition of making beer. It’s a skilled process to the point of being a craft and so is looking after it in the pub. To get beer to the lips of the drinker in perfect condition takes not just skill and expertise but meticulous attention to detail all the way from the brewery to when it flows out of the tap at the bar. Stable (and cool) temperature is crucial, both during transport and in the pub cellar, where 11 - 13°C is the rule, and in both locations hygiene is king.

Once delivered, each and every cask goes through a specific procedure usually taking days rather than hours before it is ready to be served. The yeast in each cask must be activated, by rolling the cask, so that secondary fermentation happens, carbonation builds up in the beer (cask ale shouldn’t be flat!) and sediment drops to the bottom and doesn’t end up in your glass. You could compare it to artisan cheese sold by traditional cheesemongers, as opposed to processed cheese from supermarkets. Cask ale is fresh and alive rather than filtered and pasteurised, so it needs tender, loving care to ensure it is served perfectly.

How long until it’s ready varies from beer to beer but takes as long as it takes. As well as knowing how to look after the beer a skilled cellar manager will have enough stock so they don’t have to cut corners in the conditioning process – which can result in poor quality beer – and not too much beer as a cask must be consumed within three days of going on sale.

Served properly, to the highest standards cask ale is as worthy of revere as a fine wine and it’s worth learning how to recognise perfection.

THE CASK BEERS

Session pioneer: Dark Star Brewing, Sussex - Hophead (3.8%)

Fresh, zesty tropical fruit flavours emerge after an initially bracing piney, resinous hop hit. Persevere even if you’re not a fan of bitterness as it calms and becomes fruitier once you get used to it! British brewers have a global reputation for flavoursome low ABV session beers – this is a modern example. I love a few pints at The Seal, Selsey, West Sussex.

Old favourite: Adnams Brewery, Suffolk - Broadside (4.7%)

My husband and I bonded over a shared love of Broadside on our first date, but even before then it was a favourite. Shades of fruitcake, without being too sweet, meet tangy British hops in a traditional strong bitter much more drinkable than you’d expect. The Eel’s Foot, near Minsmere nature reserve, serves an excellent pint.

Cross-cultural vision: St Austell Brewery, Cornwall - Proper Job (4.5%)

IPAs (India Pale Ales) are the ‘It Beer’ of the modern age. This one features Cornish-grown malts and British balance but is flavoured with deliciously grapefruity American hops in a nod to the brewing culture which helped reinvigorate our own. A pint at the The Globe Inn, Topsham, is just the job after a walk along the Exe Estuary.

24 Sept - 4 Oct is Cask Ale Week, details at caskaleweek.co.uk